Saint Laurent ballet pumps herald the return of flat shoes

Ballet pumps in a Saint Laurent video.

If there is anyone who can reverse the fortunes of the ballet pump –written off last year by this very paper – it is Hedi Slimane. The Saint Laurent designer's approach to fashion could be seen as a desire to rewrite the rock'n'roll wardrobe. The duffle coat, the biker jacket and leather trousers have been elevated to the height of luxe during his three-season tenure, and the ballet pump – currently a downbeat essential that is more of a commuter staple than a statement shoe – is the latest item in his sights. A former favourite of beatniks such as Juliette Gréco and Jean Seberg, the ballet pump makes a lot of sense in the subculture-centred Saint Laurent universe.

Slimane has taken the ballet flat back to its roots: dance. A new range of 12 is trailed in two films directed by Slimane, both of which feature twinkle-toed dancing models. While Gracie Van Gastel hula-hooping on a rooftop in couture grunge is cute, it is Lida Fox that clinches Slimane's revival of the ballet pump. Fox even one-ups Coco Rocha Irish-dancing down the catwalk. An ex-dancer, Fox pirouettes around an industrial space wearing leather pants, a black chiffon shirt and black ballet pumps. Suddenly, that quick change into flats on the tube looks very far away. This is the ballet pump being chic and edgy. Part of the house's permanent collection, to be revived every season, the move from unassuming facilitator to design classic is complete.

If Slimane's instinct for cool is an endorsement of the humble ballet slipper, the Saint Laurent line is part of a wider trend in fashion going back to flat. 2008 was the peak of heel height, with 6in heels – and a casual addiction to painkillers, probably – the norm for fashion editors. Flats were the definition of beta, worn by assistants who took public transport. But the inevitable drip-down of this look from fashion insider toTowie acolyte has seen fashion come down to earth.

More modest stocky heels have been enjoying a moment – Whistles'Nico style is buzzy this season, and has a 1.5in heel. Nicholas Kirkwood, who became the patron saint of the sky-high party shoe, has more flats than ever in his spring collection, and he is phasing out needle-thin stilettos. Christian Louboutin, who said last year that "comfort is not my focus", has introduced a matching brogue and backpack set for spring. Something that seemed unimaginable five years ago is now the height of chic. Enjoy it while it lasts.