Friday, 1 November 2013

The photography of Deborah Turbeville

Deborah Turbebville's The Bath House
The Bath House, American Vogue 1975 Photograph: Deborah Turbeville/Marek & Associates
Deborah Turbeville, the American fashion photographer who died this week at the age of 81, made a career out of making images that were shrouded in mystery. Originally a fashion editor at Harper's Bazaar, she first started taking pictures in the 70s. This context is key – she was a contemporary of Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, whose glossy, sexy and confrontational pictures unsettled the still-stuffy world of fashion. Turbeville's aesthetic was different – dreamy and mysterious. It doesn't feel as if you're invited in to an urban erotic underworld, as with Newton. Instead, hers was a more delicate – more female – gaze. Working for Vogue and Nova, and producing ad campaigns for the likes of Valentino and Acne, Turbeville turned fashion pictures into intriguing character studies.
You want to know more about the woman posing in the ruined palazzo, or the group of swimsuit models caught in the showers. Like stills from a long-lost film, these images stay with you and – as Turbeville later said – exist outside the realm of fashion. There is something precious and antique about her pictures, and they represent a great legacy to be discovered by younger talents.

Falcao does not have exit clause, insist Monaco

Falcao does not have exit clause, insist Monaco
The club's vice-president, Vadim Vasilyev, has ended speculation about the striker's future by making it clear that they have no intention of selling him to Real Madrid
Monaco vice-president Vadim Vasilyev has insisted that Radamel Falcao does not have an exit clause in his contract amid reports linking the Colombia international with a move to Real Madrid.

Madrid president Florentino Perez recently admitted that the Liga giants see Falcao as an interesting option for the future, with several Spanish sources claiming that the 27-year-old could join the Santiago Bernabeu side for a set fee.

However, Monaco have made it clear that Falcao will not be going anywhere for now.

"I know Florentino and I have a lot of respect for him. He runs one of the best clubs in the world, but I think some of his comments were inappropriate," Vasilyev told Marca.

"Falcao has signed a five-year deal with Monaco and I have already said a hundred times that he doesn't have an exit clause.

"We put in a lot of effort in order to sign him and it would not make any sense to allow him to leave again in January or next summer."

Falcao has a contract with Monaco until June 2018.

PSG prepare €41m bid for Mata

The Blues are willing to listen to offers from abroad for the Spain international, who is concerned about missing out on selection for next summer's World Cup
By Greg Stobart

Chelsea star Juan Mata is ready to leave the club in January as big-spending French side Paris Saint-Germain prepare a bid worth €41 million for the playmaker.

THE VIEW FROM FRANCE
Naim Beneddra | Chief Editor Goal France

"Juan Mata is definitely the kind of midfielder who can bring more to this already star-studded PSG side. A few months ago we may have wondered where Mata could fit in, but with theplanned departure of Jeremy Menez and Javier Pastore, coupled with Lucas Moura's fitness struggles, there will certainly be a place for the Spaniard.

"Mata's technique and turn of pace with the ball at his feet would see him combine and complement the more 
imposing figures of Zlatan Ibrahimovic and Edinson Cavani."
The Spanish star started and scored in Tuesday’s Capital One Cup win against Arsenal but is unhappy under Jose Mourinho having again been left out of the starting line-up for key matches including last Sunday’s home win over Manchester City.

Mata is fearful for his place in the Spain squad for next summer’s World Cup in Brazil - and he is ready to quit Stamford Bridge in the winter as he goes in search of regular first-team football.

Chelsea are willing to listen to offers for the 25-year-old but will refuse to sell him to a Premier League rival, ruling out a transfer to Manchester United or Tottenham, who both tried to sign the former Valencia man over the summer.

Mata is happy in London and has publicly vowed to fight for his place and declared himself "happy" at Stamford Bridge. Behind the scenes, however, he is strongly considering his future, especially with no sign of  a new deal to improve on his €82,000-a-week contract which runs until 2016.

“I am happy at Chelsea. I have always felt the support of the fans - in every game, on the street - I have felt the love from them. I try to play for them, score for them and make them happy. We have great support," he told Talksport on Wednesday.

“I want to play as much as I can, but if you want to win titles you need 24-25 players ready to play. Anyone can play any game."



PSG are the leading contenders at this stage, with sources confirming to Goal that the Ligue 1 club tried to sign Mata in the summer and are preparing to return with a bumper bid in the new year.

Barcelona and Real Madrid have both ruled out bids for the midfielder, while Valencia’s precarious financial situation means they are unable to fund a move to re-sign their former star.

Mata has failed to establish himself in Mourinho’s plans this season, often settling for a place on the substitutes’ bench, especially in big games against Manchester United, Spurs and City.

Mourinho has cited Mata’s lack of defensive work as the main reason behind the Spain international’s frequent omission, with Oscar preferred in the No.10 role at Stamford Bridge.

Mata has been Chelsea’s player of the year in the last two seasons, and last term scored 12 goals and provided 12 assists in the Premier League alone.

Premier League: 10 things to look out for this weekend

Ten things composite
Joe Hart, Fernando Torres, Phil Jones and Martin Jol are all set for important weekends. Photograph: PA/Getty/Barcroft

1) A goalfest at the Emirates?

Liverpool used to enjoy their trips to Arsenal: five wins in eight seasons between 1993 and 2000, with only one defeat. But after Titi Camara's Celebratory Millennium Skitter at Highbury, they didn't triumph again in the fixture until Luis Suárez set the seal on a 2-0 win in 2011. But after that long wait, the recent trend is currently in their favour. That win forms part of a three-game unbeaten run for Liverpool at the Emirates, although how much one can read into the other two games, which featured a penalty equaliser in the 12th minute of injury time and thecomprehensive bottling of a seemingly unassailable two-goal lead from a position of dominance, is a moot point. Still, trends are trends, and while Liverpool are coming off the back of Suárez and Daniel Sturridge's masterclass against West Brom, Arsenal have lost their last two at home, albeit to Borussia Dortmund and Chelsea.
The fact that Liverpool's centre midfield, built carefully around the proud but slowly crumbling Steven Gerrard, doesn't quite have the requisite snap, despite the resolute efforts of Lucas and the increasingly impressive Jordan Henderson, might give the home side succour, especially if Aaron Ramsey and Jack Wilshere are in the mood to run at it. The fact that Arsenal's midfield is without the influential Mathieu Flamini, with the SAS in this unforgiving and upbeat mood, might give the Gunners nightmares. Try to call the result? No thanks! But there were four goals in this fixture last season. There's no reason why a similar tally won't be run up this weekend. SM

2) Aston Villa's luminous shirts

Aston Villa's luminous lime green kit won't take much looking out for this weekend, because it'll be very difficult to miss. Last season's away strip, the lurid shirt prompted a new terrace chant: "We're Aston Villa, we glow in the dark!" This season, the arresting attire has been relegated to third choice kit on the back of the contractual diktat from shirt manufacturers Macron that stipulates the club must wheel out new home and away kits each season. Villa's players get to wear it again at Upton Park this Saturday because the claret quarters in their away kit could clash with the identical colour in West Ham's home shirts and cause confusion among players, officials and supporters.
Whatever their attire, Aston Villa have enjoyed a lot more success on the road than at home this season, having won two, drawn one and lost one of their four Premier League games away from Villa Park. Against a West Ham side that has lost three of its four matches at the Boleyn Ground, Paul Lambert's Hi Viz army (you can have that one, travelling Villa fans) will fancy their chances. BG

3) Manchester United's defence: a new era?

Manchester United always used to use the League Cup as an opportunity to give a few squad members a much-needed run-out. Times change, of course, and while David Moyes doesn't yet have the capital to treat English football's third trophy with such reckless insouciance, the line-up he sent out against Norwich City on Tuesday, set alongside the one he selects at Fulham tomorrow, might prove instructive. Rio Ferdinand and Nemanja Vidic were the centre backs for the Capital One Cup, but Phil Jones and Jonny Evans are currently his preferred pairing in the league. The XI for Fulham could offer further evidence that one of the great partnerships is on its last legs. Few United fans would take issue with that decision, agreeing with a heavy heart. Many more, however, would object if Rafael, named alongside Ferdinand and Vidic in the "second XI" on Tuesday, is disposed with in the league. The best right back at the club, Rafael is popular enough with the support for such a decision to cause waves. If the rumours suggesting Moyes doesn't fancy him and is willing to sell are true, the manager might lose a fair bit of goodwill, a commodity he can ill afford to shed right now. SM

4) Can Sunderland build on last week's win?

Having seen off Newcastle with a thud-and-blunder performance that was more brave than bravura, it will be intriguing to see how Sunderland fare on their travels to the KC Stadium. Despite their long overdue first win of the season, Gus Poyet's side remain deep in the relegation mire but will fancy their chances of securing another three points against a Hull City side that suffered a wearying and dispiriting Capital One Cup defeat on penalties against Tottenham Hotspur on Wednesday night.
Sunderland, by contrast, have had the week off and will be jubilant after winning their second consecutive derby against their local rivals. Indeed, in an interview that may prompt the drug-testers to scurry to the club's training ground sample jars in hand, Gus Poyet has been busy describing the transformation in the mood among his players. "They have been on a high all week and that has been great, but by the end of Wednesday they had come down a bit," he said. "Thursday is about being calm and composed, and we turn our mind on Hull then for Friday."
In 10th place and having been cruelly robbed of a point courtesy of a ludicrous penalty decision at White Hart Lane last weekend, Hull's mellow has been well and truly harshed in the past week and Steve Bruce will almost certainly have payback in mind after being sacked by Sunderland in 2011. He has had made no secret of his bitterness over the decision to dismiss him and incurred the wrath of fans on Wearside by foolishly suggesting they had "Champions League" aspirations when, towards the end of his reign, they'd almost certainly have settled for paying to watch a team that demonstrated even half the fight shown by Gus Poyet's men last Sunday afternoon. BG

5) Will Martin be smartin'?

Here's a question, then. What exactly is Martin Jol doing that's so wrong? He's the manager of Fulham Football Club, and Fulham Football Club – forgive us, but much as we'd like the following not to be the case, we don't make the rules of modern football – aren't expected to win trophies, but merely survive. So while League Cup defeat to second-tier Leicester City is a bit of a pain in the trousers, it hardly represents a statistical outlier at a club without a major trophy to their name. Meanwhile the team are pootling along in mid-table, playing pretty and occasionally spectacular football, as poor old Crystal Palace will attest. There's a good chance Manchester United, three wins on the bounce, will be too good for his Fulham side this weekend. If so, and if the bookies are worth listening to, which they probably are, Jol could easily find himself out of a job, sacrificed in the pursuit of … well, what exactly? SM

6) How will Mike Dean fare at Cardiff City v Swansea City?

The decision to appoint Mike Dean to oversee this potential powder keg is a weird one. In 2009, the whistle-blower from Wirral was understandably shaken after being hit on the forehead by a coin thrown by some eejit during a Championship match between the two sides at Ninian Park. He went on to upset Swansea fans by awarding Cardiff City a penalty which Roberto Martínez, then the Swans' manager, unwisely described as an "emotional decision" made by the referee in order to appease home fans.
There is no suggestion that the unsavoury incident will influence Dean's officiating in any way during Sunday afternoon's encounter, but his presence will provide conspiracy theorists among both sets of fans a stick with which to beat him and others should any contentious decisions go against their team. In a match where tensions on and off the field are guaranteed to be high, the appointment of a different match official would have been more wise. Then again, perhaps all concerned have forgotten about that particular afternoon at Ninian Park; it was more than three years ago, after all, and it's not like a lot of football fans are renowned for their long memories, paranoia or willingness to hold a grudge. BG

7) Can Torres keep it going?

Fernando Torres was magnificent against Manchester City on Sunday, burning past Gaël Clichy on an embarrassingly regular basis, setting up one and scoring another. The performance came off the back of a two-goal showing at Schalke in the Champions League, and a recentpowerful display against Spurs, the plus points of which were kind of forgotten in the wake of his needlessly getting up in Jan Vertonghen's astonished grill. Tack on some important goals at the business end of last season's Europa League, and a Chelsea career that was beginning to look like a complete personal write-off (no, we're not going to count the medals) looks like flickering slowly into life. But if it's ever going to happen for the 29-year-old £50m man, it's now. His winner against City was his first league goal all year. All year! Another quick goal, followed by another, is vital if he's ever to build some proper momentum at Chelsea and revisit the belligerent brilliance of his peak years at Liverpool. Newcastle, a club at civil war, is as good a place as any to maintain it. Receiving good notices every now and then upon hinting at a return to form is no longer enough; the scoring tally has to keep ticking over. SM

8) Can stuttering Spurs make a statement?

Chelsea are the form team of the division – a perfect October, six wins on the spin – but Spurs aren't too far behind them. They've only failed to win three of their 15 matches in league and cups all season, losing just twice. It's a formidable record that sees them sitting snugly in fourth place, three points behind the leaders Arsenal. The fans aren't in carnival mode yet, though, as André Villas-Boas noted to his chagrin, and they have reason to be anxious, because the happy stats aren't everything. While the Big Book Of Hoary Old Football Platitudes states that playing badly but getting results is the mark of a good team, it's also true that scraping past the likes of Crystal Palace, Swansea, Cardiff and Hull will only get you so far. In the big games so far this season, Spurs have signally failed to impress: they lost to Arsenal, might have been defeated by Chelsea had Torres not launched the aforementioned concerted campaign of terror on Vertonghen, and were humiliated at home to the tune of three goals by West Ham, who didn't even bother playing a striker. Tottenham could do with making a bold statement, their first of the post-Bale era. And where better than at resurgent Everton, who have lost only one league game themselves, and have won the last three times these teams have played at Goodison. SM

9) Goals galore between Stoke City and Southampton

Stoke City have scored just twice in four Premier League matches at the Britannia Stadium this season, one fewer than they have conceded at home. This weekend's visitors, Southampton, have conceded an astonishingly paltry three goals in their nine Premier League games at home or away to date and kept clean sheets in five of their last six Premier League outings. A pragmatist could be forgiven for thinking there may not be many goals in this match and put their money on a scoreless draw (7-1) or 1-0 win for either side (Stoke: 7-1, Southampton: 13-2). Idealists, by contrast, might prefer to labour under the logic-free delusion that this trend for parsimony can't possibly continue and look forward to a 10-goal thriller. Hey, a weekly Premier League preview feature can dream. BG

10) Will Pantilimon take Hart's place?

All that there is to say about Joe Hart's career change from title-winning professional footballer to music-hall tumbling act has now been said. There's no point sticking the boot in while the man's down. Still, Manuel Pellegrini's teamsheet on Saturday at home to Norwich could be quite revealing. Selecting Costel Pantilimon in the Capital One Cup tells us nothing – he gets that gig anyway – but if the Romanian doesn't get a run-out against a side in the bottom three, at a stadium where City have scored 13 goals in four matches, in a fixture staged after the latest in a long line of egregious errors by Hart, he may decide once and for all that there's no point waiting around for something that isn't going to happen, and chip off in search of first-team action. If Pellegrini plays his hand badly, he could be looking for not just one but two new keepers very soon.

Arsène Wenger says Arsenal must not be distracted by Luis Suárez saga

The Arsenal manager, Arsène Wenger, maintains his players must not become distracted about what Luis Suárez might do for Liverpool at the Emirates Stadium on Saturday.
Had things turned out differently this summer, then the controversial Uruguay forward could have been leading Arsenal's attack, rather than netting six in the five games since returning to action for Liverpool from a 10-match ban imposed after biting Branislav Ivanovic.
Wenger, though, insists his team should focus on producing the required response following their midweek Capital One Cup defeat by Chelsea as they look to stay top of the Premier League.
He said: "Suárez is doing very well, but what is important for me is the players that play for Arsenal, not those who could play for Arsenal. What is very important tomorrow is the players who play against Luis Suárez."
Wenger continued: "I think our target is to have the ball and master the situation because we are dominating and we have more of the ball than our opponents – and if we have the ball a lot we do not need to worry too much about our opponents and that will be the target tomorrow."
Luis SuarezArsenal had a £40,000,001 bid for Liverpool's Luis Suárez turned down this summer. Photograph: John Powell/Liverpool FC via Getty Images
There had been some discontent among Arsenal fans at the thought of signing a player who also served a ban for racially abusing the Manchester United defender Patrice Evra in October 2011. Wenger, though, would have had no issues had the transfer been completed, with Liverpool rejecting a £40,000,001 offer which was expected to have triggered a supposed get-out clause.
"The player has been punished for what he did," Wenger said. "We have high moral grounds. We take information about the moral level of the player and when there is any moral restriction we do not buy the player."
Arsenal will have the midfielder Mikel Arteta back from suspension after his red card against Crystal Palace. Mathieu Flamini, who has impressed in midfield since his return to the club, remains sidelined with his groin problem as does Serge Gnabry (ankle), while Theo Walcott is still recovering from minor abdominal surgery. Wenger maintains his squad are determined to show their title aspirations are not unfounded with an impressive display against Liverpool.
"The mood is very strong, very united and very focused. We know where the priorities are, it is in the Premier League and the Champions League," he said. "We are in a strong position in the Premier League, that is why our mood is positive. We want to be and I think we are title contenders, and Liverpool as well. You have four other teams certainly, or five, who will be title contenders this year.
"It is a big game for us, massively important, but I don't worry about where the teams are [in the table]. Between the team who is 14th and the team who is eighth, there are two or three points. At the moment, the table has no real significance."

Barcelona set to join Lewandowski race

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Barcelona could go head-to-head with the likes of Manchester United, Chelsea and Bayern Munich for the signing of Borussia Dortmund striker Robert Lewandowski.

The Poland international is not prepared to sign an extension on his current deal, which expires at the end of the season, and is subsequently free to negotiate with other clubs from January 1.

European champions Bayern Munich had appeared to have won the race for his signature, but Barcelona may pounce if they discover he does not have a pre-contract agreement in place with the Bundesliga leaders, according to Sport.

The 25-year-old is widely regarded as one of the best strikers in Europe, having scored 84 goals in 148 appearances for BVB since joining the club in 2010, and is on the radar of the biggest clubs on the continent.

Calling all comedians: stop writing tetchy open letters to each other

Coogan, Mitchell, Webb and Brand
Coogan, Mitchell, Webb and Brand. Photograph: Getty
Although Lost in Showbiz doesn't really care to have the effluent of Fleet Street in the house, it is dimly aware that Steve Coogan's been in a bit of a bate with newspapers of late. The temptation to throw the baby out with the bathwater must be immense – and yet, if only the comic and actor would heed the wise words of Andreas Whittam-Smith, former editor of the Independent, who once observed that to write an open letter was an act of journalistic madness.
Last weekend, you may be aware, Coogan opted to respond to a column by the Observer's David Mitchell by writing him an open letter, also published in that newspaper. Mitchell consequently wrote an open letter of reply to Coogan, which was itself published in the Observer – at the very same time at which his frequent comic partner, Robert Webb, was engaged in another, unrelated act of open letterdom somewhere across town. Webb was displeased by something Russell Brand had written to readers in the edition of the New Statesman the latter guest-edited last week, and has written an open letter to Brand about it all, which is published in this week's New Statesman.
What a thrilling turn for the epistolary public life has taken! In fact, it is to be hoped that by 2019, all political debate in this country will be framed by various comedians writing frothingly cordial letters to each other.
Even now, some funnyman or funnywoman could be dipping a fountain pen in to the special open-letter ink, and preparing to join this esteemed fray, like the various unreliable narrators of Les Liaisons Dangereuses. "My dear Vicomte MacIntyre …" "I received your letter, Madame de Millican, but suggest on that contrary that …" "Would you do me the immense courtesy of having a word with yourself, Chevalier Carr?"
Before we move on to the detail of the various missive wars currently raging, it feels time to ask what on earth the open letter thinks it is. It is not really a letter at all, despite being framed as such, though it seems stagily anxious not to be seen as a column. In the end, perhaps, the biggest problem with the open letter is its condescending relationship with the readers. It does not purport to be addressed to them at all, you see, preferring instead the pretentious pretence that it is being sent over their heads. It affects not to attempt to engage them in the slightest, except perhaps in the role of admiring plebeian bystander. It's like some weirdly misguided op-ed equivalent of the fourth wall, with readers invited to press their miserable noses up against the glass and be grateful for the sight of two famous people indulging in some hot quill-on-quill action.
Perhaps in the age of Twitter, where pseudo-conversation between the well-known is increasingly public and performative, this is acceptable to some. To Lost in Showbiz, though, it looks like a bit of a famewank.
In the circs, it must be said that the open letter is not a million miles from that other essentially absurd and self-regarding piece of posturing, the newspaper column, of which – FULL DISCLOSURE – your correspondent types out three a week. (In fact there is only one column – it's a bit likethat episode of Bagpuss where the mice on the mouse organ claim to have a chocolate-biscuit mill, but in fact have only a single chocolate biscuit which they keep wheeling around the back before producing it again and claiming it's new product). But at least a newspaper column doesn't affect to be addressed to someone far grander than the people doing it the favour of reading it.
Still, on with the show, and a now-overdue recap of the disagreements in question. David Mitchell doesn't back the royal charter on press regulation, but Steve Coogan does. Meanwhile Russell Brand opines you shouldn't vote, and Robert Webb disagrees and says Russell's article on the matter made him rejoin the Labour party.
And so to the open letters. There were the obligatory tetchy air kisses. "I've been a big fan of yours over the years … you are consistently well above average," wrote Coogan to Mitchell, before observing that the column in question was not "up there with your most rib-tickling stuff. So I can only assume it's, er, what you actually think." "I just thought you might I might want to hear from someone who a) really likes your work," wrote Webb to Brand, "b) takes you seriously as a thoughtful person, and c) thinks you're talking through your arse about something very important."
"David, if your article were a schoolboy's essay," concluded Coogan, "it would score highly for style. But it would be covered in red ink with frequent use of the word 'sloppy', finishing with 'see me'."
Mitchell's response, it must be said, felt as reluctant as it was restrained, ending with a pointed: "I don't think you're insane to think [what you do] – I just don't agree." His comic partner took a rather more sledgehammer tack with Brand. "I'm aware of the basic absurdity of what I'm trying to achieve here," he wrote, "like getting Liberace to give a shit about the working tax credit." Like Coogan, he felt moved to mark Brand's work. "You're a wonderful talker but on the page you sometimes let your style get ahead of what you actually think … keep an eye on that … it won't really do." His signoff to Russell? "In brief, and I say this with the greatest respect, please read some fucking Orwell."
If it is unfair to pick out these faux-chummy digs as opposed to whatever was the substance of either man's argument, it is regrettably inevitable. The nature of the open letter form dictates that it is not the argument, but the cod-familiarity, the this-comes-from-a-place-of-love needling that ends up being most excruciatingly memorable thing about it.
As for the reader, maybe they are left marvelling how lucky they are to live in this golden age of comedians writing to each other, and allowing them a squiz. Or maybe they feel like adapting the old saw about eavesdroppers only hearing the worst of themselves, and observing that those forced to play the role of voyeur to an open letter only hear the worst of whoever penned it. Many who read Coogan or Webb's classics of the form might rather wish they hadn't, and could preserve a more flattering picture of the people whose other work they have long enjoyed.